FW 20/21

Diamanda Collection FW 20/21

A collection that reveals herself through a thousand flashes and reflections, at times peaceful, at times sparklingly vivid. Iridescent textures and pearly metallic effects, defined by sinuous and tightly fitted lines, delineate and highlight the contours of the body, giving it a fleeting and inexorably seductive quality. Once again, the night is Ludovica Amati’s creative ground. The designer looks at icons from the 60s and 70s, like Diana Ross, the glossy queen of the Detroit sound and star of ‘Mahogany’, or Jane Birkin, with her timeless Anglo-Parisian “garçonne charm” and nuanced modern romanticism. Ludovica’s poetics, wouldn’t be her own, without a poignant goth touch. Like the American singer and performer Diamanda Galás’ elusive voice, often used as a synthesizer, a technological and baroque instrument capable of precise sound waves, Ludovica bestows timeless and archaic suggestions. A source of dark light, eccentricity, as mantra and incessant research. Anatomical shapes sculpted by elastic satin, soaked in a blue-black color tone with a deeply nocturnal soul. The black velvet tuxedo is vertically traversed by rows of contrasting iridescent sequins, in yellow and fuchsia. The outfits silhouettes are rendered fluid by spadona feathers in carmine red, obsidian, and sapphire. Feathers, that occasionally assemble into “féerique” furs that float in the wind like strange tropical flowers. The knitwear vibrates with icy pulsations and bronze shades. Elsewhere, fringes of micro-beads and vaguely Victorian or 1920’s jais pearls, embody a dynamic will and an impalpable and suffused movement which perturbs the textile surfaces conveying rich interplays of transparencies and drapées. Chains of minute brass spheres, emphasize necklines, armholes and button tapes, while satin or velvet straps fade into extreme couture abstractions, nodding a wink to the portraits of Giovanni Boldini and Philip de Lázló. The recovered elegance of the velvet details, halfway between 70s sexiness and bourgeois citations. Eight families of fabrics: metal, catwalk, knit, feathers, velvet sequins, satin, fringes, déco. The decidedly bright palette ranges between precious stones and metallic shades. Including silver, crimson, fuchsia, intense yellow, canonical black and a liquefied blue with iridescent refractions.

Cesare Cunaccia